Why Lustica Feels Different
Lustica is the mountainous arm that forms the southern shore of Boka Bay, and it feels like a different country from the busy waterfront towns on the opposite side. The peninsula has no through-traffic because the road dead-ends at the tip. That means almost nobody drives here unless they are going to a specific beach or the Lustica Bay resort. The result is empty roads, abandoned stone villages reclaimed by fig trees and wild sage, and swimming coves where you might be the only person in the water.
From Tivat, the loop takes about three hours if you stop at two or three beaches and poke around one of the ghost villages. You do not need a four-wheel-drive vehicle — the main road is paved throughout — but some of the tracks down to smaller beaches are gravel and potholed. A standard hatchback handles everything on the main route comfortably.
The Route from Tivat
Leave Tivat heading south past the airport. After two kilometres, take the left fork signposted for Krasici and Lustica. The road immediately narrows and begins climbing through olive groves and dry-stone-walled fields. Views of the bay open up on your right as you gain elevation — Kotor's mountains across the water, the ferry route below, container ships moving slowly toward the open sea.
Continue through Krasici and Radovici. At Radovici, the road forks again: left toward Zanjice and the peninsula tip, right toward Lustica Bay resort. Take the left fork first for the wildest part of the drive. The road winds through hamlets where most houses have been empty for decades — stone walls with collapsed roofs, courtyard wells choked with brambles, the occasional restored cottage with a new terrace and bougainvillea.
Three Beaches Worth the Drive
Lustica's coastline faces the open Adriatic rather than the sheltered bay, so the water is clearer and the waves are bigger. Three spots stand out:
- Zanjice: The most popular beach on the peninsula. White pebbles, transparent water, a couple of beach bars, and a small car park. Arrive before 10 am in summer to claim a spot.
- Miriste: A five-minute walk south from Zanjice along a rocky path. Much quieter, no facilities, surrounded by pine trees that provide natural shade. Bring water and a towel.
- Dobre Vode: A tiny cove accessible via a steep gravel track near Krasici. Not signposted — ask at any local cafe and they will point you to the turnoff. Rocky entry into the water, but the swimming is excellent.
Ghost Villages and Olive Groves
The interior of Lustica was once densely settled by farming families who grew olives, almonds, and grapes on terraced hillsides. When the Yugoslav economy industrialised after the war, most families moved to Tivat or Herceg Novi for factory work. The villages emptied over two generations and now sit in various states of photogenic collapse. Klinci, Mrkovi, and Brguli are the most accessible — park on the road and walk in.
Some villages are being slowly restored as weekend houses or agritourism ventures. If you see an open gate and an occupied terrace, it is usually fine to ask for directions or a glass of water. The locals who remain are proud of these places and happy to talk about them. After exploring, loop back to Tivat via the Lustica Bay resort road for a coffee at one of the waterfront cafes. For more on the area, see our Porto Montenegro guide.
Lustica Bay: The New Development
At the eastern end of the peninsula, the Lustica Bay resort complex is transforming a stretch of coastline into a planned community with a marina, the Chedi hotel, a golf course, managed beaches, and residential villas. The development is still expanding but the infrastructure that exists is polished and well-maintained. Non-residents can visit the beach clubs, restaurants, and the golf course for a fee.
The contrast between the abandoned stone villages in Lustica's interior and the glass-and-steel resort at its edge is striking. Both are worth seeing on the same drive. The resort's beach club makes a comfortable lunch stop before heading back to Tivat — the grilled calamari is good and the loungers face the open bay with Mamula island fortress visible in the distance.
Practical Notes
Fuel up in Tivat before starting the loop — there are no petrol stations on the peninsula. Mobile phone signal drops in the interior valleys, so download offline maps before you set off. The main peninsula road is two lanes but some sections narrow to single-track with passing places. If you meet an oncoming car on a narrow stretch, the driver heading downhill typically reverses to let the uphill driver pass. Take it slowly and enjoy the emptiness.